Go Bunkers, really Bunkers!

Here comes the darkness...

I know I did go bunkers already. But to be frank, it was a very brief visit. I was rushed by my companion, who was rushed by unexpected guests, who turned out weren't unexpected at all, but just forgotten :)

Shall we go in???

As we power-walked around the bunkers, I peeked through entrance holes. I am a wuss in nature, so I can pretend all I like that I didn't explore the underground, because there wasn't much time. The truth is, even if I had all the time in the world, I wouldn't go in.

Outside, yesssss!!!

So when I came across information about organised walk through soon-to-be-demolished bunkers, I was all in and very exited. Luckily for me I managed to pass my exitement to few other people that decided to tag along :)

Here comes the light, go towards it

I expected a guide, who will walk a group of 50-something people around, like when you sightsee a city with a guide, or a museum, or a castle. I imagined that as we walk though bunkers with the guide, I will be told so much about the place that I could imagine soldiers being there as we toured.

Closed off exit, trapped???

Well, there was none of that going on. As it turned out, it was a group of friends and enthusiasts, who sightsee bunkers together. So, unfortunately I did not find out anything new about the history of the buildings, or what there were used for. Despite that it was worth going. First of all we saw all the bunkers in the area (the ones still hidden in forest too). As it turns out half of them were hidden.

Bathroom :)

Another plus, and a huge one, is that with all these people and their powerful flashlights and no fear of any kind, we decided to dive in. At first very hesitant (all we were equipped with were phone flashlights, that comparing with our new friends torches were like candlelight).

Candle-lit picture

First bunker and surprise already. I thought there will be a small room (let's call it multipurpose room), but behind that room, there was a corridor linking other rooms. It was quite big. It took about 10 minutes (that felt like half an hour) to look in every room, I was getting scared I won't find the way back. When we resurfaced I was very grateful for the sun.

Lovely forest

As "the tour" progressed we become more relaxed underground, as much so that all my companions scattered around exploring new spaces on their own. Added bonus was a gorgeous weather and beautiful forest, even this time of the year.

Transformer room, aka. Common-room

Despite of lack of concrete information about the bunkers, I did find out that some of them were build in c.a. 1900 and were used by German army in war. I also know now were the transformer room is (that information I obtained when sightseeing said room. I suggested to my fellow companions that it was common-room, as it was quite big. To that suggestion one enthusiast enlightened me that it was not. Also I found that what I thought to be a broken lamp, was in fact a powering source).

See you underground :)

Go Bunkers :)

Remains of battery

This time I decided to go see bunkers. I decided to go after I read an article on local website that urged to go see the bunkers, because they will be demolished soon. I felt the time urged so I decided to go see the bunkers on the weekend. I also got exited because I didn't know there were so many of them. Well, I knew there were few bunkers around Westerplatte and I knew there are bunkers all around TriCity, but I always thought of them as bomb shelters.

25 firing position Permanent Artillery Battery, and the ship.

The day was lovely, sun came out and it was so inviting to go and do stuff outside. Unfortunately when I got around the sun disappeared. As I was preparing for the short trip I begin worrying: what if I don't find the bunkers? what if I get arrested? what if they are already demolished? what if is dangerous there? I read in the article that the bunkers are located in the port area that is under surveillance of Port Guards. Since that area is considered "the border" trespassing isn't allowed.

Camouflaged bunker

As always I was accompanied by somebody, who wasn't the least thrilled to tag along :) As we were driving I was wondering if we are going the right way, but as we got of the main road there wasn't much choice of direction except straight forward :) When we drove of the wooded area I got surprised by a humongous ship, that seemed to come out of nowhere, then I noticed the bunkers :)

25 firing position Permanent Artillery Battery entrance

Since the port is expanding and a new terminal will be build on the ground were the bunkers are, the preparations have begun, therefore all the trees were cut (most of the fortification bunkers are hidden in the forest that surround the beaches).

Replacement fire control point BAS 25.

I seems that the fortifications come from after II WW, when it was decided that it was necessary to rebuild Gdansk coast defence, but haven't been looked after since the '70. However I looks like these bunkers aren't the first ones build in the area and fortifications were built there before I WW.

Remains of bunkers in Gdansk bay area

It is sad that part of the history is being destroyed, but in defence of that I say that the fortifications are in poor shape, also they never actually were used in defence. Also I have learnt that there is something called Coastal Fortifications Trail. It is best to follow the trail by bike, since it is quite a distance. I hope I will conquer it when spring comes :)

Coastal Fortifications Trail; source: trojmiasto.pl

The Teutonic Knights Castle of Gdansk

The Teutonic Knights Castle of Gdansk Panorama

So I got inspired by one post of my new friends of Gdańsk, Danzig, Gdansk, Freie Stadt Danzig. So inspired that I immediately wanted act on my inspiration. You can certainly guess that the post was about Teutonic Knights castle of Gdansk.

"Swan Tower" post Teutonic

Wow, I thought, Gdansk finally is going to be one of the cities that have castles. I mean, nowadays cities can get anything: skyscrapers, shopping malls, even lakes,but not castles. Like the old medieval ones. I am sure you understand how exiting it was, Gdansk would advance in city ranks for sure.

Fortification Wall, Gdansk

The good news is that not all cities of the world had Teutonic Knights castle within the city limits. The bad news is that all that is left of Teutonic Knights castle is a tower and a little wall. I say, better this than nothing :)

Mighty Teutonic Tower :)

The history of Teutonic Knights Castle is quite rich and starts in X century, with wooden castle which didn't belong to Teutonic Knights at all. Well, calling it castle is a little of overstatement. It was more like a fortified manor house. In XII century, as a celebration of Pomerelia joining Poland, two brick structures where added: a church and a tower (that beside serving defence purposes, was also used by prince and his family as their private quarters when they came to visit).

This isn't Teutonic wall, but we can pretend it is:) right?

So, how the Teutonic Knights did take over the castle? In 1308 Gdansk was attacked by Brandenburg Margraves and since Gdansk couldn't fight them off, they hired help: the Teutonic Knights.

Panorama of former grounds of the Teutonic Knights Castle in Gdansk

The Teutonic Knights did fight the other army off, but they didn't leave. Instead they took over the castle, and started adding buildings and fortifications. When they finished the upper castle consisted of: infirmary, kitchen with chamber, the commander chamber, bath house, cellar, armory, dormitories, church with library, chapter house, refectory, and a bakery.

Supposed map of the castle grouds, source: zamki.pl

The word consisted of: woodshed, granaries, grindery, cloakroom attendant storerooms, forge, workshops, stables. All of it was of course surrounded by curtain, donjon, towers. They were fully equipped too. From registry we know they stored, among others, crossbows, bolts, bombard, saltpeter and of course helmets and other armour and weapons.

Supposed view of the castle, source: altiok.blox.pl

Not only did they have the "state of the art" castle. The fact of Gdansk being the hub of transport and trade, made this Teutonic Knights Castle one of the richest and most influential. 

The Teutonic Knights actual wall, Gdansk

The rule of Teutonic Knights in Gdansk came to an end in XV century. The clever people of Gdansk then proceeded to demolish some of the fortification, and then rebuilding it back (like the only tower that still remains to this day). 

The tower, view from the other side 

Unfortunately nobody knows how the castle really looked like. The only painting that portraying the castle was destroyed in WWII. Thanks a lot!

The Teutonic Tower up close

There you have it, the one and only mysterious castle that, well still exists within the city. The most obvious is the tower, and piece of curtain. I read that some pieces of fortification are still embedded in walls of nearby restaurant, and also remember that hotel by the tower is build on foundations of the castle.

Bastions - The Lower Town

Unfortunately I might have underestimated how much work I would have to put into preparing posts and especially pictures for my blog. Now 2-3 posts a week seem to be more like a fantasy, than a reality, however I will try to reach that goal in future, I hope. The fact, that last weekend the time was changed into winter one isn't much helpful. Now it's pitch black when I finish work, so well, to take today's pictures I had get up at crack of dawn to make it before work. Ok, it wasn't that much of crack of dawn :) I guess as the time goes on and the winter's moving in I will have to embrace Tricity "at night" (during the shortest days of year we get in Poland approximately 4 hours of daylight - which is funny if you compare to the longest days of year, that last about 20 hours:)

The Lower Town of Gdańsk is a part of Gdańsk- downtown (belive or not, but it is not the same thing), and of course has a german name - Niederstradt. However I will write more about the Lower Town a bit later. I hope to attend a walk of the neighbourhood with a historian, that knows thing or two about this area, in couple of weeks so I will have more to write about, becuase at present I know pretty much nothing :) Well, I do know that this The Lower Town has rich history behind, but that's about it ;)

Today I would like to show you a piece of the Lower Town, which I think is a gem. I am talking about bastions that are located on south-east bank of the Lown Town island. Yes, Down Town is an island, at least it used to be. Now it's a semi-island, with 90% of being an island and 10% of being an inland. Anyways, that is my theory.

On the picture can be seen  is original gate to City Gdańsk

The bastions were made in first half of the XVII century. To this date five of them survived, and they also have very original names: Wolf, Excess, Bear, Rabbit and Garden. During the times of their glory they protected the city from enimes.

What I like the most about this place is it's weirdness and uniqueness. Just before I visit this place again this morning I was planning to write that,the bastions are peaceful place, but when I got there this chilly morning I realized that it's absolutly not. You can hear the city all around you: trains passing, factory noices (I think they were factory noices), but you can't see most of it. I guess I never noticed that before, becuase I never came there during working hours. And back then it was peaceful there :)

Despite all city noices, it does feel relaxing there. Allthough I was almost running from place to place to take the pictures today, I did feel that relaxing atmosphere there. Just didn't have time to take it all  in :)  You have your birds there flying around and swimming in water. There are benches to sit on, and  further out is playground for kids and something that people call here "gym under a cloud", which essentially is just gym equipment placed outside :), We have fancy names for everything here,oh yes :)

I didn't mention the most characteristic thing about this place. You can't see it much in the pictures, you can notice it when going for a walk there, but it is most noticeable when looking at google maps. The river has a zig-zag shape. I am not most travelled person, but I never seen a man-made zig-zag shaped river, and for most of the part the river maintained it's original zig-zag shape with sharp corners of 90 degree angle.

Also from the highest bastion there is a view of the old city.

Gora gradowa - Thr Hail Mountain

Finally!!! After a week of crapy weather, there was a breakthrough in rain and I was able to go out and take some pictures to share with you. I decided not to start with them all favourite tourist spots, but with something that I have discovered myself lately. I call it hobbit town. However it has nothing in common with hobbits except my imagination :-) I have passed this place on my way home every day, always wandering what it was but never courius enough to check it out. But finally I did. From outside- that is from the road I everyday drive on - it is just big red cross that promises nice panorama of the city, and so I thought it was it. But when i got to visit the place i was amazed that it had so much more to offer than that. I call them hobbit houses but they really not. They used to be houses for saudiers, among others. This place was made in XII century. It was always thought to be militry. The location was perfect to watch over the city for any danger approching. It has very rich history that can be learned when visiting the place. Nowdays, the inside of the buildings are made into kind of interactive museum, which I find so amusing I can go there any Saturday, if I had children. Don't get me wrong. I visit the place and had a blast, playing with the toys as if I was 10, toys desing for 10-year old's. Well, I am 10 years old at heart :) I loved it, but visiting with my cousin also approprate age for ehibitions as I was felt a bit wird. I guess grown ups shouldn's enjoy kids toys anymore, even though they are far more entartaining than the one made for adults :( But going back to main subject, which is hobbit town. It always amaze me, that in the middle of the city there is a place, that traffic stopps, the sound of the city gets mutted and everything slows down. Being there relaxes and also makes you think how was the life back then. At some point it was academy for souldiers, so you wander how did they live, did they have their own hut, or rabbit hole:) for themself or did they have bunk beds? Was the building in the middle their canteen, or where their ate? Where did they have classes? All these questions I ask myself when walking the paths of hobbit town. What I discouvered though it's just a tip of the iceberg, i think. The whole thing is 27 hectarts. Not all of it restored yet, so there is a reason to come back now and again :) I wouldn't complaint about that, more reasons to come, I think YES:) As this is my really first post I do not know how to end it so I just say, see you there I hope :) Oh, and there are the pictures I took today, despite looking nice and warm I froze my fingers to bone, but I hope it was worth it.

Fort Grodzisko