This particular part of Gdansk architecture hold special place in my heart. Back in '90 I earned my first money, a lot of money (according to me back then :) this is where I spend it. Back then it was the fist shopping mall in Gdansk, if you even can call it that. It was a building filled with shops so I guess it meets the criteria. But even then it was so much more than that.
It is a beautiful building, it really is. I might be my fondness of it, but I really, really like that building :) The funny thing is, that I didn't even realise what history this building holds until now. And let me tell you, there is a history.
The mill was built in 1349 by Teutonic Order. The mill is placed on man-made island. The mill was used for milling rye, wheat and also barley and oats. At its best it help 18 mill wheels. The mill was a big deal, it generated income that apparently was worth fighting for. At first opportunity Gdansk city jumped to be the owner of the mill.
There is a nice part on the side of the mill and at the back of the mill there is a restaurant, which looks nice from outside, but I never been there so cannot comment on menu :)
Also there is a internet bench there, which stream live images, so when you sit there make sure your friends are watching :)
Overall, I love this building ( I think it's kind of obvious :). In the inside you can see reminiscence of the old mill.
This place is on tourist attraction maps, but I don't believe that most tourist would be bothered to check this place out. To those tourists I say: Shame on you! :)
Small arsenal is placed outside of immediate Old Town. I think that this would be the reason people can't be bothered going there. I, myself adore this place. I like it the most at night. Also small arsenal gives me the creeps at night, but I guess I like to torture myself. Why does it give me the creeps? I'll tell you later. First a little bit of history :)
The arsenal was build in 1645 during the times of uncertainty and wars :) It was built by one architect of many names: George Strakwitz, who liked to spell his surname differently. Sometimes he signed on his designs Strakowski or Strakoffsky (maybe he was trying to disguise himself as he simply wasn't that happy with his work - who knows:)
The small armoury is of a simple, but yet beautiful design, with very few decorative accents, but with six huge gates, that allowed to move in big objects. It is part of heavy fortification of Gdansk, but was used not only to store armoury, but also other objects like decorations used to embellish route for kings and queens.
As time went by and all wars finished, armoury wasn't used for military purposes. At one point it served as headquarters of taxi company (taxis went to sleep there :). Now small armoury is where art comes to life. The building is home to Faculty of Sculpture and Intermedia of Academy of Fine Arts in Gdansk.
Remember, when I told you that small armoury gives me the creeps at night? Well, here is why: a lot of the sculptures made by fine artists are stored outside and a lot of them look like people. So when I walk alone in dark around that place, which isn't very busy I feel there are people up there are observing me.
Nonetheless small armoury is beautiful place, with small part upfront. And the cool think is that the outside display changes from time to time, so in a way it is like changing exposition at a museum :) What is also nice is that not far from small armoury are bastions, which I think are a must see for absolutely everybody.
Don't worry, it is not a story from the Bible :) It is a story from City of Gdynia :)
Last weekend I happen to be in Gdynia. My sis and I were going to an event on the pier. I happened to pass by this strange building. I wouldn't have noticed it among the jungle of big kamienica and commercial building if it wasn't so small. I stopped because of it size. As always it made me wander, why such building exists in such environment. It clearly looked out of place. I think you would agree with me on that. So of course, I had to stop. There was a sign next to the fence so I took a picture of it for future reference:) Since recently my companions get annoyed with me stopping at random places for picture taking and exploring, I found this technique saves precious time. Now instead of standing by for hour or so I am ready to move along within 15-30 minutes :) As I later discovered this tiny building happens to be the oldest building in Gdynia. I'd say: good find!
When I mentioned this building to my party later on, everyone was surprised "I forgot Gdynia is such a young city". It is, that is true (the youngnessness becomes even more prominent when one compare Gdynia with nearby Gdansk). Therefore I think it is so important to remember places like this one. As I came around on Sunday afternoon I was ok with the fact that museum was closed (as I found out there was museum inside tiny building). I was to prompt you to go there during visiting hours and let me know what's there to see. Unfortunately I found out that now the museum closed :( Indefinitely :( So the building is just a gem to admire from outside only. Such a shame.
Let me tell you few things about the building and its previous owner. Tiny building was a home to one known as Antoni Abraham. This person is not much know in polish history. Certainly I didn't know who he was until now really. The building itself is from 1904 and as I said before is the oldest building in Gdynia (building was made before Gdynia got city rights).
But, let's go back to Abraham. How strange, that there is so many people that shape this world but we know just few of them. Antoni Abraham is one of those people. Born in 1869, he was a great patriot, he fought for Poland and also Kashubians, He is known around as king of kashubian. Not only was he an activist who took part in many rallies (many of which he organised himself), he also tried to educate people of importance of patriotism and freedom. He was great supporter development of Gdynia port. All his life he tried to activate local people to unite and fight against invaders. One of most memorable actions of his was going to Paris to take part in piece negotiations demanding to keep Kashubian area in Poland. It's hard to say if thanks to him Poland got to keep Kashubian area after I WW, but I'd like to think so :)
This weekend I went for Night at the Museum. However there was no Ben Stiller, or exhibits coming alive at midnight. You might ask, how is that possible? The answer, as always, is simple. I went for the real Night at the Museum.
Emigration Museum and a ship as big as the building itself
Every year museums around Poland open their doors to visitors at night (from around 5pm to 2am). Not only the entrance is free (in majority:), there also are extra surprises that are one-off kinda thing.
You might see suitcases there
I had very ambitious plan. I wanted to start in Gdynia, at Emigration Museum as it was its opening day. Then I wanted to stop by European Solidarity Centre, as I never been since it opened. I also wanted to see Tower Clock Museum (who wouldn't! right?) and finish of at Westerplatte.
Or, a picture of modern supermarket
We got to the Emigration Museum around 6pm to discover a bubble-shaped queue in front of entrance to the main exhibit area . No worries, we got in in a blink of an eye (about 40 minute blink:). Main exhibit area reminded me of a maze, (the "road" was twisty:) each room was so different from the previous one. I did try to read about the exhibits and gain the knowledge of polish emigration, however I had others museums at the back of my head, so I read about 50% information, but I saw 100% of pictures :)
You definitely gonna see that and you will love it even more :)
By the time we got out the queue quadruple in size and transformed into a line, and I couldn't be more pleased with myself:) So I grabbed a bagel from food truck upfront and hit the road. The only problem was the time. It was 10pm already (how????). So, of we rushed off to European Solidarity Centre.
You might be able to leave a message here...
As we entered from side door and headed upstairs to the exhibition rooms I was amazed and very happy that there is no queues. Until we were stopped at top of the stairs and directed to cash desk to purchase tickets. Then I saw it. The queue writhed like a snake. Estimated waiting time: 1,5 hrs. As the bets on waiting time started rolling in a miracle happen: a lady came over and offered her tickets. I almost lost the tickets as I was so surprised I didn't respond to her and there were plenty of people that were more than happy to take advantage of the offer. Thankfully the lady had her heart set on me, for which I am more than grateful :)
and enjoy show here.
The next thing we did was speed touring. Even with our almost running pace it took us around 2 hours to walk though all the exhibition rooms. However I am not sure if I got them all, as I got a little bit lost in the meantime. I guess it doesn't matter as much, as I would have to come back because I got around 5% information and 40% pictures.
Resistors
Purposefully I am not describing any exhibition pieces and I don't want to spoil the fun for those of you who will go see it. For anyone interested in history, especially polish history both of the places will be interesting. Otherwise go to the beach instead:)
And you can admire rooftop view :)
Although I didn't "make the plan" I consider this year's Night at the Museum as successful. Did you ever got to experience the real Night at the Museum yourself?
Probably the most known fountain statue in TriCity and symbol of Gdansk. So, why do I write about it since it is so famous that every tourist knows to stop by it anyway? The answer is quite simple. The fact that it is famous doesn't mean that people know about it.
The Neptune Fountain with Town Hall in background
Let's start at the beginning then. In 1549 first fountain appeared on Long Market (some claim it was simple wooden water jet and calling it 'a fountain' is overstatement:). The "fountain" was placed more to the east from the present one.
The fountain, view from the back
However soon enough the stewards of the city grew tired of the litter water jet in the centre of the city. All the more so as they were able to see greater structures around the world. Naturally they decided that Gdansk deserved a fountain that could proudly represent Gdansk and its residents (that was in 1606).
View of the Neptune and Long street
Abraham van den Blocke was hired for the work (I start to feel like this guy built half of Gdansk!). New place was carefully chosen. It was decided that statue crowning the fountain should be Neptune - the god of freshwater and the sea in roman religion. New fountain was to be faced in direction of apartment houses across the Artus Court. The head of Neptune was to be bowed in respect of kings and queens that resided in said apartment houses when visiting Gdansk. Also the Neptune Fountain is in the axis of the entrance to the Artus Court and the axis of Long Street and Green Gate.
Statues around basin look up to Neptune
It took a long time to finish the fountain. Not only the construction problems, but also the war with Sweden delayed the works. However despite the obstacles the work was completed in 1633. The fountain was created by Abraham van the Blocke, however the statue was of Peter Husen work. Surprisingly the first glimpse at the statue came way before revealing date, thanks to Izaak van den Blocke (brother of Abraham), who decided to paint Artus Court with soon-to-be Neptune Fountain in front of it. I haven't seen the painting myself, but if you like to see it, it is on the ceiling of Red Hall in Town Hall.
Details on the stem
Very advanced solutions were put in place in order to have the fountain work. There was a container build at the attic of Artus Court, with pipes running down the building and under the pavement right to the fountain. Every time that the Neptune Fountain was scheduled to work the container was filled with water (read: people were carrying water up to the attic in buckets). That is probably the reason why the fountain only worked only three times a week (Sundays between 11 - 12, Tuesday and Thursday between 12 - 13) between Easter and 29th of September of every year. I guess there was no coincidence that running time was set for an hour, as the container in the attic of Artus Court has a capacity that allowed fountain to work continuously for an hour. Imagine the persistence: the Neptune Fountain was run this way for 200 years!! (that is until waterworks were built in Gdansk).
Neptune attacking Town Hall tower :)
During II WW the whole fountain was taken apart and hidden away. After the war piece were found in different locations, however some pieces never were found: trident, finn of sea bass and stem, which is rumoured to be sunk in one of Oliwa's lakes.
Some parts of the fountain were hidden in its basin during the war
Surprisingly the fin of the sea bass (which loads of people mistake for a leaf) that covers private parts of Neptune is the single most stolen piece of the fountain. Also, there is a small replica of Neptune (or this replica is the prototype of the statue) at a roof of 2 Long Street building. I didn't know that when I went today to take pictures, pity :)
I am so exited I can barely contain myself. I was very fortunate to take part in Instameet in Gdynia. We were visiting soon to be open Museum of Emigration. It goes without saying that I was more than happy with the whole tour. Mostly it is due to Mr. Marcin, who was our tour guide.
Entrance Hall
I can admit that I am not familiar with history of Gdynia, or it's - too see places. But whenever I ask any Gdynia native what there is to see in Gdynia, I don't get any more info than what I know already (sometimes even less).
Emigration Museum and the Sun
We got nice warm up walk with quite few "details" that I'll share with you later. But everybody knew that the museum was the real deal. I'll just add that this was my first InstaMeet, so I had no idea what to expect. I will also say that till last week I had no knowledge whatsoever of Museum of Emigration. Open or not.
"Emigration" wall
The museum is based in a station, that was in use between 1933 and 1987. Silly of me, but brave to admit that the whole time of the tour I thought it was a train station. I had it all figured out. Since it was the emigration museum and a station I figured it was used during WWII to ship people out of danger. The idea I had was that people where brought by trains to the station and then put on ships to emigrate. I was wrong there. My imagination fails me so often!
Original track from the crane
The museum is set to be open in early summer, so since they aren't quite ready we didn't see any exhibits. That didn't bother me. The building itself is a gem. They restored the original building that was open on 8th of December 1933. The building was enriched with beautiful glass that adds so much to experience and it is consistent throughout the building. You have the sleeve that is mirrors what is was there before (which was a fully working sleeve). Clever use of glass gives you so many reflections and angles. I was amazed. Truly.
Cafe, see beneath you :)
I promise you, I will get all the facts about the actual station by the time it's open. But for now I can't get over how it was restored and made into such a gem. I'll say people of Gdynia start spreading the word that such beauty is around the corner. The museum is very close to main town, but to get there one has to go through industrial area, also big surprise that such terrain still exist so close to main town. You even get a feeling of village-like life. I would live there if I could.
I have been to the Green Gate of Gdansk. So it is only natural that I decided it's time for another gate of Gdansk :) The Golden Gate of Gdansk.
Mighty Golden Gate
To be frank, I could have done both of them at same time as even at low pace it would take max 20 minutes to walk from one to the other. I however am well known for not making things easy for myself, so I had to keep to my standards :)
golden age of Golden Gate :)
To be honest, as a child I always confused these two gates. I could never remember which one is which. Now, it just seems foolish to me, as they don't look alike at all. My only excuse can be that as child I was more interested in what was happening on the street. The colorful displays and beautiful smells of sweets distracted me.
The Golden Gate, view from Long Street
Lets start by saying that Golden Gate isn't really made of gold (no surprise there, right? :) and that wasn't it's name to start with. The gate marks the beginning of Long Street, and is a part of so-called "Royal Route". The original name of the gate was "Long-street Gate" or if you prefer Langgasser Tor (original German name). The current name apparently has absolutely nothing to do with the history of the gate, somebody probably called the gate golden couple of centuries ago, and it stuck :).
View on the Town Hall through the Golden Gate
The gate was built in 1612 by Abraham van den Block as a replacement of a Gothic gate that was there before (I'm sorry, no kings of queens here). Alike the Green Gate, the Golden Gate's style is Netherlands Mannerism. Unlike the Green Gate, it only has three arcades (one main and two side once).
The Golden Gate after II WW
Without a doubt in my mind my favorite part of the gate are decorations, that I never paid any attention until now. As it turns out there are 8 statues on top of the building, 4 on each side (but that I am sure you can see :). The statues on the west side of the building (opposite of the Long Street) were supposed to symbolize the desires townspeople: Pax (Peace), Libertas (Liberty), Fortuna (Happiness), and Fame (Fame). On the opposite side of the building statues were representing civic virtues allegories: Concordia (Harmony), Iustitia (Righteousness), Pietas (Godliness) and Prudentia (Prudence).
Statues of the Golden Gate
Also I really like the message of inscriptions carved into the walls. The first one is in german: "ES MVSSE WOL GEHEN DENEN DIE DICH LIEBEN ES MVSSE FRIEDE SEIN INWENDIG IN DEINEN MAVREN VND GLVCK IN DEINEN PALASTEN". It's a quotation from bible and it translates to more - less : "Let thrive those who love you. May peace be in your walls, and prosperity within thy palaces".
Latin inscription on the Golden Gate
Second citation is in latin: "Concordia res publicæ parvæ crescunt - discordia magnæ concidunt".Which means: "With the consent small republics grow - with disagreements big fall". I can hardly imagine better quotation to be inscripted.